Let’s Talk About Color: Turquoise

May 21, 2007 § 8 Comments

It’s back. Call it turquoise or a bluer version of seafoam but it’s back. Resurrected from the ’70s, turquoise is popping up everywhere from bathrooms to master bedrooms, to kitchens. It is a fresh, youthful hue that is both soothing and inspiring and it ranges from the bluer version, for example, tropical teal (Benjamin Moore’s #732) and the ice cold jack frost (Ben Moore #729), to the greener version, for example, the darker floradale isle (#581) and the pale tropical paradise (#575).

Paired with crisp white only, turquoise looks terrific, but a little bit dated. Same with the traditional turquoise/peach pairing. Typical Florida –yawn —  it’s been done. But combine turquoise with a variety of its neighboring hues on the color wheel, from clearer blues to the yellow greens, like  tasty apple (Ben Moore #416),  and suddenly you have a more contemporary look. Add white to make the colors pop and you have a spectacular fresh new room.

So if you have old turquoise tiles from the early ’70s in your bathroom and you don’t want to gut the room, try painting the walls an icy version of the turquoise. Use plush white towels and some apple green soaps and other accents and you have an updated look.

Special Note: Unless you live in the tropics or the Southwest where turquoise occurs naturally in the environment, I suggest confining the color to the inside. If you really want to use turquoise outside, make it an accent color — like the front door on a light mint-green house. Or chairs on the deck. There’s no other color that screams vacation like turqouise.

Let’s Talk About Color: Red

May 16, 2007 § Leave a comment

redkitchenafterstage.jpgPersonally, I can’t live without red. To me, it generates a warmth and energy that every home needs. At least to some degree. And the right red looks great with woods and white and just about everything. Ben Moore’s moroccan red has a hint of orange in it that adds spice to a kitchen backsplash or a breakfast nook and even makes old golden oak cabinets look revived. Confederate red has a pinker tone and is perfect for a dining room. Nothing stimulates lively conversation and dining like the glow of candlelight off red dining room walls. I know it’s been done before, but there’s a reason for that. Red walls work.

Red does give off a lot of energy, however, so if you want a restful bedroom, I would avoid red walls there unless you’re a kid or a teenager. My son’s walls are a dark red-orange with big red dots and a golden yellow ceiling. Just painting the room raised my blood pressure a bit, but he loves it! And it is definitely cheerful. I cooled the room down with black and white striped pillows on his bed and a big blue beanbag chair.

If you can’t stand the thought of red walls in your home or if you just don’t have enough light to make them work, try red as an accent color. With green as its compliment, red makes the greens greener. Red accents warm up a blue and white room, add drama to a neutral color scheme, and look terrific with red’s warm analogous colors like yellow and orange.  

If you do paint your walls red, just make sure you add enough white in the room to balance the scheme and reflect light. Go ahead. Spice it up a bit. Try red.

Neutral Doesn’t Have to Mean White

May 15, 2007 § Leave a comment

If you are trying to sell your home, the real estate professionals will tell you to neutralize it: remove all the clutter, pack away all the personal items, make sure each room’s function is clear, and paint your walls a neutral color to appeal to all buyers.

Well neutral doesn’t have to mean white. And you don’t have to paint all the walls the same color either. Here are a few guidelines for painting your home in preparation for selling:

1) Make the house seem as big and spacious as possible. If you have a small center-entry colonial with a small dining room on the left, a small living room on the right, and a small kitchen in the back, you have two options.

  • Choose a color like Benjamin Moore’s manchester tan (HC81–seems to go with everything) or standish white (HC32–a warm sunny color) and paint all the public rooms that color, creating the feeling of one continuous, warm, inviting space. 
  • Choose three “neutrals, ” like manchester tan, standish white, and another color that matches the value of the other two, for example, hollingsworth green (HC141) or woodlawn blue (HC147) and paint each room a different color. As long as you select colors that have the same hue value (the degree of lightness or darkness) and the same intensity (the degree to which a color is either clear or grayed-down), they will blend well, form an uninterrupted backdrop to the space and give that “neutral” feel to the home without being white everywhere.

2) Cross-pollinate your colors to create “flow.” If your dining room is green and your living room is blue, bring some blue into the dining room and some green into the living room. By sharing colors between rooms, you move the eye from one room to another and make the whole public space seem larger. When each room is its own distinct color or style, you lose the continuous flow feeling of a larger space and the house seems small and disjointed, not a good thing especially if you’re trying to sell.

3) Paint the ceiling to rescale your room. If your ceilings seem too high for the room, paint them a shade or two darker than the wall color and add crown moulding (optional). Your ceilings will appear more in scale with the walls and the room will feel a little more cozy and more inviting.

4) Paint the front door. The entry to your home is critical to creating a positive first impression. Fresh paint in any color will be an improvement, but red or another punchy color will make a great opening statement.

5) Paint the bedrooms anything but pink. There’s nothing like bubblegum pink to say little girl’s room. But to provide universal appeal to buyers, I would stick with a gray blue, like silver mist (BM  1619) and other neutrals (see above) that will allow the bedrooms to be gender neutral.

Sticking with a soft pastel palette and a really good paint job will allow you to present a house that has some character without succumbing to the painter’s white syndrome.

Let’s Talk About Color: Orange

May 14, 2007 § Leave a comment

office.jpgOrange is a terrific color for stimulating creativity and enthusiasm. That’s why my office walls are orange. I find that paired with dark woods and lots of white, orange walls are like a sunrise in the morning and a sunset at night. And whereas red can be dark, orange is always bright and cheerful.  Blue-green is orange’s complementary color so the two make a very dramatic pair.  Turquoise, light blue, and green (all cool colors) balance the heat of the orange and look great as accessories.

For a really spectacular orange, try Sunset Boulevard (#082) by Benjamin Moore. Use it as a backsplash in a kitchen, an accent wall in a family room, or any place where you would like a splash of bright, sunny color.

The real key to painting your walls a bright, clear color value, as opposed to a grayed-down shade, is to use a lot of white, either in the trim or with furniture and accessories. White makes the color “pop” or stand out to the eye and also gives the eye a place to rest from all that terrific color.

If your own style dictates a more neutral wall color palette, try orange pillows on the sofa, a bowl of oranges on the kitchen table, and of course, orange flowers in a vase. I add orange to my neutral living room every summer. It perks me up. Try it.

Choosing a Tasteful House Color

May 7, 2007 § 66 Comments

I do a lot of driving. And as a decorator, what I find myself doing for much of the time is looking at house colors and analyzing them. From Upstate New York to Massachusetts, I’ve seen everything from spearmint green to black. Some colors really work and by that I mean that they draw your eye to the house and the surrounding landscape, but they allow your eye to move on. Other colors draw your eye directly to the house colors themselves and you don’t notice anything else. And you find yourself staring at the color and wondering, “What were they thinking!!”

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Here’s what I suggest when it’s time to choose an exterior house color. This is particularly important if you’re selecting permanently installed siding as you’re stuck with the color for 20 years or more.

1. Look at nature. If you live in Florida, nature gives you everything from wonderful pastel shell tones like light pinks and peaches to bright hibiscus reds. And the sky and ocean provide the cool side of the palette. So when you’re choosing a house color, select colors that you see in your surroundings.  A bright coral house in Florida looks perfectly acceptable because the color appears naturally in that environment.

If you live in Wisconsin or Vermont, however, that’s a different story. Nature in the north gives you earth tones like browns and olive greens and rust and even black. Spearmint green really stands out against a backdrop of evergreens and that’s not a good thing. So when you’re choosing a house color in New England, choose a color and a hue value that appear in nature. That would not include bright turquoise but might include a grayed-down slate blue like Benjamin Moore’s Jamestown Blue (HC-148).

2. Look at your neighbors. It’s the reverse of “keeping up with the Joneses.” You do not want the same house color as your next-door neighbor even if he stole your favorite color.

3. Respect history. If you live in an old house, choose a color that might have appeared on the original. There are many colors in the historical palette, but there are several that are not.  When in doubt, stick with the tried and true historical palette, such as Benjamin Moore’s HC colors. This tasteful array of hues suits most homes, especially traditional style colonials, old or new. Richmond Gold  (HC-41) looks great with black shutters and cream trim. And the greens, such as Louisburg Green (HC-113) blend beautifully with natural surroundings.

4. White works. White homes have a presence, a traditional elegance that fits in many historic areas. But in the winter, they either get washed out or they look dirty gray. White works if you keep up with the paint job and keep the house’s exterior clean. Be sure to add color with your door and landscape plantings. And black or dark green shutters.

5. Victorians follow their own rules. If you live in an old Victorian home, do some research and discover all your color combination options. All rules of conventional taste can be broken when you’re highlighting the detailed trim on an old painted lady.

6. Where to use purple. There’s an old brick house in Cambridge, Massachusetts, with a dark purple metal roof and dark purple front door. The combination is quite stunning. Purple is great as an accent color on front doors, wreaths, and landscape plantings. A little purple can go a long way, but used carefully, it’s a great color.

7. Blend or be seen. The bottom line for house color is to decide whether you want your house to blend tastefully with the others in the neighborhood or stand out as the focal point on the block. If you decide to go off the natural palette and opt for a crayola-bright color, consider using that hue for a door color or some other accent instead of the house color. You’ll make just as big a statement and stay within the realm of good taste.

 One more thing. House color is important to your children. When I was away at camp one summer, my parents painted our house orange with green shutters. (Orange was supposed to be gold but the paint store messed up and my parents did not have the color sense to stop the presses.) Horrified is the word to describe my shock when I returned from camp. From that point on, my house was known and identified around town as “the pumpkin house.” Don’t do that to your children!

Follow the guidelines and select a paint color for your home that will show your good taste and make your home look its best.

Let’s Talk About Color: Yellow

May 1, 2007 § Leave a comment

Yellow is a great color if you like sunshine — and who doesn’t. The problem with yellow is that if you end up with a hue that is too lemony, it can really make the energy in the room a bit too intense. Even agitated. But if you select a hue that has a touch of red in it, you get a wonderful golden glow.

If you have a Benjamin Moore fan deck (or you’re headed to the paint store) check out the difference between sun city (352) and traditional yellow (170). The effect on a room is huge. Although the lemon yellow looks great on the paint chip, picture your whole room in that color. Acrid comes to mind. On the other hand, the orangey lemon is warm and enveloping, like the glow from a candle. If you do decide to use a lemon on your walls, you can temper the color with lots of white and black.

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Let’s Talk About Color: Blue

April 27, 2007 § Leave a comment

From the sky to the ocean to a baby’s blanket, it’s no wonder that everybody loves the color blue. As a cool color, blue recedes making rooms appear larger. As a color pulled from nature, blue represents relaxation and peace and is perfect for rooms like bedrooms, babies’ rooms, living rooms, porches, guest baths, and just about every other room where you want to relax. But choosing the right blue can be a real challenge because what appears to be a pretty blue in the paint store may turn out to be a vibrating horror on your walls.

Here’s an exercise. Next time you’re in the paint store, pull a bright clear blue (like Highland Breeze #786 from Benjamin Moore) from the sample rack and put it on a piece of white paper. Then pull what might appear to be gray (like Silvery Blue #1647 from Benjamin Moore) and put it on a different piece of white paper. Now stand back and try to picture what each of those colors will look like on all four walls of your room. What happens with the clear blue is that it feels like it’s vibrating. The clarity of the color makes it so intense in the room that the effect is far from restful, at least for an adult. (Kids and teenagers love clear colors so something like highland breeze might work for their rooms, but make sure you temper the color with a lot of white.)

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The more restful shade of blue is the silvery blue because it is greyed down. It tends to blend and recede as a restful backdrop and is perfect for any bedroom.

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The message to share is that you should notice more than the wall color when you enter a room. If all you see is the walls, then the room is not working. To avoid that wall color trap, look for greyed-down shades and avoid crystal clear hues that resemble the contents of a crayon box. You’ll be happier with the result.

Let’s Talk about Color: Taupe

April 26, 2007 § Leave a comment

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Taupe is one of those colors that drive interior decorators crazy. It is fickle. One moment it is a wonderful neutral backdrop to rich woods, cream, and warm autumn colors. The next moment you’re seeing green. Then the next moment you’re seeing pink. Yikes!

All color is influenced and dependent upon light. From sunlight in the afternoon to incandescent bulbs at night to those awful fluorescents that we’re using more and more, the lighting in the room will change the color you actually see on your walls. That’s why the color you choose under the fluorescent lights in your paint store may not turn out to be the color you want in your home.

When you’re selecting color, the best thing to do is buy a little paint (companies are accommodating this practice by offering little pots of selected colors) and paint up a foam  core board. Then tape it to the wall in your room and observe the color at different times of the day. And on sunny and cloudy days. Is it the color you want?

This exercise is especially important with taupe. Moving out of the gray tones of taupe and into a warm camel brown (like C2 Paints’ Chai) might solve the chameleon color dilemma in your neutral room.

Let’s Talk About Color: Green

April 25, 2007 § Leave a comment

HighPark467As a decorator, paint color in my house changes so often that my husband and kids just roll their eyes when they open the door and smell the fumes. They hardly notice any more. But I sure do. I change room color to experiment with light and shadow and depth of color as well as different color combinations and color placement. So wouldn’t you know that two days before my mother-in-law was to arrive, I decided to repaint our master bedroom. Deadlines seem to inspire me.

My jumping-off point was the area rug, a mixture of greens and salmon pinks. I had lived with a light shell pink on the walls for quite awhile and was ready for something richer. So I selected a beautiful soft green, not too olivey and not too sagey. Benjamin Moore’s High Park (#467 from their Classic Collection). It turned out to be a very relaxing color, perfect for a bedroom. And mixed with white and cream, the color “pops” (as we too often say).

The upholstered headboard (see other blog entry) was another last-minute inspiration as were the large pillows.

If you’re looking for a soothing, relaxing, ahhhhhh kind of bedroom, consider a soft green. Other favorites are Benjamin Moore’s historical greens like Kennebunkport Green (HC-123) and Nantucket Gray (HC-111). Both work really well in a bedroom and look spectacular with wood. And if you look at nature through your windows, you’ll feel like you’re in a tree house.

 

You Can Make a Simple Tufted Headboard

April 12, 2007 § 2 Comments

If I can do it, then anybody can. Heard that before? Well here’s the scoop on making padded headboards.

Tools I used: large piece of plywood, scrap wood like small 2x4s, 3-inch foam, quilt batting, spray adhesive, staple gun, circular saw, studfinder, power drill, power screwdriver, pliers,  level, pencil, covered button kit, scissors, coordinating fabrics, ear protection for using the saw, and eye protection.

 I started my project around 9:00 a.m. and finished around 2:00 p.m.  So I wouldn’t call it quick, but it was fairly straight forward.

 The design was a very simple rectangular padded headboard with three large tufted buttons. And I planned to mount the headboard directly to the wall above the bed (I had tried leaning headboards up against the wall but they always seemed to flop. Putting it on legs would be fine too but attaching it to the wall seemed most sensible.)

 1. Using a studfinder, I found two studs on the wall behind the bed and affixed a piece (around 2-ft long) of scrap lumber to the wall by using long screws. 

2. After measuring the width of the bed and deciding how high to make the headboard, I cut the headboard shape, in my case a simple rectangle, from plywood using a circular saw and attached a piece of 3-inch foam to the wood by using spray adhesive. (Electric knives are great for cutting foam.)

3. Using a large sheet of quilt batting material, I covered the foam and stapled the batting to the back of the headboard. (It’s best to cover the batting with a sheet and staple to the headboard for a smooth, professional look — I skipped this step because I was planning to tuft and the fabric was lumpy anyway.)

4. I stapled the fabric to the headboard (put one staple in each side first — top, bottom, side, side — and then proceed to staple the rest. The corners should be neatly folded or cinched — each corner done the same way to match.)

5. Using coordinating fabric, I made three large covered buttons from button-making kits. A great way to customize and dress up a project.

6. I drilled a hole on the back of the headboard opposite where the button was to go. Then I used a turkey-dressing metal “needle” to thread through from the front to the back of the headboard, through the foam and out the hole on the back. Finding the hole was the hardest part of the project but patience helped.

7. With the “needle” through to the back, I put my knee on the button and pushed to cinch in the foam and create the tuft. Then I fed the “needle” through a plain button on the back of the headboard and twisted the metal “needle” with pliers. Voila! Tufting the other two buttons was much easier once I measured and then measured again.

8. Then I mounted a long strip of wood to the back of the headboard and rested the headboard on the wooden wall strip. After pre-drilling, I secured the headboard to the wall mounting with long screws.

Note: The headboard rocked against the wall so I removed it and mounted a small 2×4 directly to the wall in order to brace the headboard from behind. Then I remounted the headboard on the wall. Done.