Let’s Talk About Color: Green

April 25, 2007 § Leave a comment

HighPark467As a decorator, paint color in my house changes so often that my husband and kids just roll their eyes when they open the door and smell the fumes. They hardly notice any more. But I sure do. I change room color to experiment with light and shadow and depth of color as well as different color combinations and color placement. So wouldn’t you know that two days before my mother-in-law was to arrive, I decided to repaint our master bedroom. Deadlines seem to inspire me.

My jumping-off point was the area rug, a mixture of greens and salmon pinks. I had lived with a light shell pink on the walls for quite awhile and was ready for something richer. So I selected a beautiful soft green, not too olivey and not too sagey. Benjamin Moore’s High Park (#467 from their Classic Collection). It turned out to be a very relaxing color, perfect for a bedroom. And mixed with white and cream, the color “pops” (as we too often say).

The upholstered headboard (see other blog entry) was another last-minute inspiration as were the large pillows.

If you’re looking for a soothing, relaxing, ahhhhhh kind of bedroom, consider a soft green. Other favorites are Benjamin Moore’s historical greens like Kennebunkport Green (HC-123) and Nantucket Gray (HC-111). Both work really well in a bedroom and look spectacular with wood. And if you look at nature through your windows, you’ll feel like you’re in a tree house.


You Can Make a Simple Tufted Headboard

April 12, 2007 § 2 Comments

If I can do it, then anybody can. Heard that before? Well here’s the scoop on making padded headboards.

Tools I used: large piece of plywood, scrap wood like small 2x4s, 3-inch foam, quilt batting, spray adhesive, staple gun, circular saw, studfinder, power drill, power screwdriver, pliers,  level, pencil, covered button kit, scissors, coordinating fabrics, ear protection for using the saw, and eye protection.

 I started my project around 9:00 a.m. and finished around 2:00 p.m.  So I wouldn’t call it quick, but it was fairly straight forward.

 The design was a very simple rectangular padded headboard with three large tufted buttons. And I planned to mount the headboard directly to the wall above the bed (I had tried leaning headboards up against the wall but they always seemed to flop. Putting it on legs would be fine too but attaching it to the wall seemed most sensible.)

 1. Using a studfinder, I found two studs on the wall behind the bed and affixed a piece (around 2-ft long) of scrap lumber to the wall by using long screws. 

2. After measuring the width of the bed and deciding how high to make the headboard, I cut the headboard shape, in my case a simple rectangle, from plywood using a circular saw and attached a piece of 3-inch foam to the wood by using spray adhesive. (Electric knives are great for cutting foam.)

3. Using a large sheet of quilt batting material, I covered the foam and stapled the batting to the back of the headboard. (It’s best to cover the batting with a sheet and staple to the headboard for a smooth, professional look — I skipped this step because I was planning to tuft and the fabric was lumpy anyway.)

4. I stapled the fabric to the headboard (put one staple in each side first — top, bottom, side, side — and then proceed to staple the rest. The corners should be neatly folded or cinched — each corner done the same way to match.)

5. Using coordinating fabric, I made three large covered buttons from button-making kits. A great way to customize and dress up a project.

6. I drilled a hole on the back of the headboard opposite where the button was to go. Then I used a turkey-dressing metal “needle” to thread through from the front to the back of the headboard, through the foam and out the hole on the back. Finding the hole was the hardest part of the project but patience helped.

7. With the “needle” through to the back, I put my knee on the button and pushed to cinch in the foam and create the tuft. Then I fed the “needle” through a plain button on the back of the headboard and twisted the metal “needle” with pliers. Voila! Tufting the other two buttons was much easier once I measured and then measured again.

8. Then I mounted a long strip of wood to the back of the headboard and rested the headboard on the wooden wall strip. After pre-drilling, I secured the headboard to the wall mounting with long screws.

Note: The headboard rocked against the wall so I removed it and mounted a small 2×4 directly to the wall in order to brace the headboard from behind. Then I remounted the headboard on the wall. Done.